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(Royal is my Race)


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The MacGregors of Rannoch



Rannoch Moor seen
from Stob na Broige

On the way to Glencoe from the south, the road skirts alongside the wild and desolate expanse of Rannoch Moor. Robert Louis Stevenson, in his novel "Kidnapped" described the Moor as being "as waste as the sea". It is especially somber when engulfed in mist or lashed by driving rain or snow but in good weather it is full of shining lochs, tree-covered islets, sandy bays, and clothed with waving grass and purple heather. It is 20 square miles of mostly peat and bog on a foundation of granite.  Rannoch Moor is virtually impassable but there is a railway line that threads across it that stops at Rannoch Station. Interestingly, the train is prevented from sinking because the tracks are 'floating' on bundles of Brushwood.

The great valley containing Loch Rannoch and Loch Tummel is renowned in Scottish song and story. Stories of its mountains, lochs, and rivers are interwoven with the legends of the clans with the names of Robertson, Stewart, Menzies, MacGregor, MacDonald, Cameron, and Macdougall. Taking the road on the north side of the loch, called An Slios Min (the smooth slopes), you reach the territory occupied by the MacGregors, Menzies, and MacDonalds. On the south side of the loch is the Blackwood of Rannoch, one of the last remnants of the ancient Caledonian Forest of Scotland, where the Camerons, the MacDougalls and the Robertsons (Clan Donnachaidh) held sway. No road connects the west and east side of the moor.

The MacGregors were the fiercest and the most feared of all the clans of Rannoch. They harried the countryside for miles around, driving herds of stolen cattle into Rannoch from all parts. Led by Duncan MacGregor, called Ladasach, they fortified the island, Eilean nam Faoileag, as their headquarters where they planned their daring raids.

Proscribed and outlawed, and forbidden to use their name because of criminal activities, these “Children of the Mist” as they were called, were nevertheless conspicuous for their bravery not only in local fights but also in battles in support of the Stewart cause.

Campbell of Glen Orchy once captured Ladasach and chained him in the underground pit at Finlarig while waiting to be 'heidit.' However, before the sentence could be carried out, Campbell was called up by James IV to march to Flodden where he died in battle. Duncan was saved and celebrated Campbell’s death by escaping and returning to Rannoch in safety.

After a 47 year long campaign of rieving, he was caught a final time on 16th June, 1552. He was beheaded by order of Colin Campbell of Glen Orchy, Campbell of Glen Lyon, and Menzies of Rannoch. James MacGregor, Dean of Lismore, wrote of his final words in Testament of Duncan Ladasach:

‘Now farewell Rannoch with the loch and isle,
To me thou was richt traist baith even and morn.
Thou was the place that wad me not beguile,
When I have been oft at the king’s horn.’

As he awaited execution he distributed his worldly goods as follows:

‘To the Curate he gives NEGLIGENCE; to the Vicar
RAPACITY, to the Parson OPPRESSION; to the Prior
GLUTTONY. PRIDE and ARROGANCE to the Abbot, HIS FREE WILL to the Bishop, and to the Friar FLATTERY and FALSE DISEMBLING.’

And with two fingers raised the ‘bare arsed’ MacGregor faced his executioners.

While the Proscription, diteadhu gu bas, was being enforced, the MacGregors of Rannoch were safe in its wilds and were never driven out. Long before the Proscription was finally lifted in 1774, the robber bands of Rannoch had given up their warlike ways and the former caterans settled down with the MacGregors who had already become law-abiding. Rannoch became a place of peace containing hundreds of honest and hardworking MacGregors.


Movies shot there
Being Human
Complicity
Monty Python and the Holy Grail
Quest for Fire
Restless Natives
Rob Roy
Trainspotting

Sources
Undiscovered Scotland
The Internet Guide to Scotland
Scotlandthemovie.com

Map

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Updated 29 January, 2008