Ard Choille!

'S Rioghal Mo Dhream
(Royal is my Race)


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Inchcailleach Island
The Island of the Old Women (or Cowled Nuns)
as seen through the eyes of one McGregor researcher


by Annie (McGregor) Stadden
Written for the Clan Gregor Society March 1999

A "Child of MacGregor mist," lingered, inert, thick and heavy upon Loch Lomond, the day we arrived at Balmaha, in Buchanan Parish. We were destined to go over to Inchcailleach Island which can be seen from Robert McFarlanes boatyard. Five generations or more of MacGregors (Ard Choille) and MacFarlanes (Loch Sloy) are interred here side by side. When we rowed over with Mr. McFarlane we landed at the north east pebbled shore. We found a map of the island nailed to a post, which led us to the burial sites. The path was winding and densely treed, with stone steps leading the way toward the west. It was here on the course, that we spotted a pure white deer, surely a good omen. On entering the burial grounds we found another sign, stating that the grounds are in the ownership and protection of the Nature Conservation and National Monuments Acts. The site itself is contained by a ancient stone wall. At this point we find the foundational remains of St. Kentigerna Church, this Saint was from the 13th Century and he died in 733. Having done our research before hand in Edinburgh at the SRO, in the John McGregor collection we found a small black booklet of Inscriptions and hand drawings of the tombstones.
An example is as follows (their sp not mine)...

Indewavd spaire not, Hier lyes
Gregor McGregor
of that ilk who endedih his life on
9 day of Febrwaried 1623
and of his age 32

Many MacGregors came over by way of the Pass of the Dead, many did not make it to Inchcailleach, the ones that did came by a type of wooden barge, floating down Loch Lomond, to be interred on the island. There are many burials here, including the Chiefs of MacGregor. One noteworthy tomb, The Templar's Grave, with the weather worn initials IHS engraved upon it, makes us wonder just how old this site is. My own ancestors have MacGregor MacFarlane ties, as my gr gr gr grandmother was Janet McFarlin, with a father Duncan McFarlin. There is a Duncan McFarlane died 1783 and buried here, within the walls, but the author herein, is not far enough back to prove if this is Janet's father. Janet was born in Blair Atholl and there are many Duncan McFarlins there also.
Time will tell, and time will permit us to return to this enchanting island again.

Sources:
Seton Gordon, Highways and Byways in the West Highlands
Nigel Tranter, The Heartland
Personal visit to the site


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Updated 29 January, 2008